Awa Odori -- festive food

Awa Odori is one of the biggest summer festivals in Japan and, according to Alex Kerr, the most traditional of the big ones. As long as you stay away from the sajiki, the grandstand areas where dance teams perform under bright lights, you can still feel the majic that Wenceslas deMoraes described when he was (I think) the only foreigner living in Tokushima a century ago. The food is pretty traditional, too, if you ignore the cotton candy, candied apples, crepes, hot dogs, and Zima.